Doe Eyed 60's

 

Twiggy applying lashes and eyeliner crease



Twiggy for Yardley False Lashes



Early to mid 1960's the 'doe-eyed' look was it!  Teenagers started to experiment and cosmetic sales went through the roof by mid to late 60's.  Girls and women were empowering their creativity and fashion sense through makeup.  Eye makeup designs became 'rounder' looking.

Twiggy

Makeup enhanced the eyes, the object was to make them look larger with minimal focus on the mouth.  Lipsticks were pale pinks, apricots, nude flesh, almost opaque at times, shiny and glossy.  Apart from the lipliner definition in contrast, the lips seemed to almost disappear.  Eyeliner colours leaned towards browns, grey and charcoal, rather than black.  Mascara was a girls' best friend, a secret weapon to lengthen & thicken the lashes. 

Mia Farrow

Gold eyeshadow shades were popular, and shiny tones.  In 1969, British Vogue wrote, "Colour your lips with natural shiny stain.  Your eyes must look wide awake and shiny."

Jean Shrimpton



Brows were thin and rounded.  False lashes were thick & short and then superceded by longer more spacious lashes as the years grooved on. 

Eyelashes were also drawn in by hand with black eyeliner to accentuate the doe-eyed look as well as individual lashes applied. 

Much empahasis was placed on the 'crease' of the eye, dark smokey lines to recede the orbital bone were drawn from the outer stretching right over to the inner corner of the eye, highlighting the light to white shimmer eyeshadows.  The contrast was quite marked and complimented the thick eyeliner and tail design also.





Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Goldie Hawn, Veruska, Jane Fonda and many more celebreties of the day lead the way in 60's eye makeup fashion.

 


Goldie Hawn



 













In My Kit

My best friend

Lots of storage room!

What's in my kit?  Here is my best friend, my lovely faithful makeup case.  It's a cantilever type, with a carry handly on top, but lock it up tight, turn it sideways and it is also a trolley on wheels (see last photo below).  I've had this case for about 7 years, and it's the best I've owned.  There is no brand name on it, which I prefer, and it was bought from a professional MUA supply place.  You can see in the background of these photos that I have a few cases.  Some aren't even in the shot.  I have a Special Effects and Stage Makeup case and a fashion multi- function case, which is the black and silver one.  For every job, I customise what I need and usually transfer to this case.  Being a cantilever type, there's no need to unpack everything out onto a table, only just what you require immediately like your palettes, foundation and brushes.  You get great visuals with this case, so it's easy to find any product you need in a hurry. 

I keep most of my larger blush and eyeshadow palettes in the base, along with my foundations.  The side drawers are perfect for smaller items, I have a lipstick/gloss section and places for my concealers, primers, tweezers etc.  I can usually fit my bag of eye & lip pencils as well as my brush kit into this great case, depending on the size of the job.  However, along with this case, I usually carry a set bag with eyelash accessories, hair styling equipment, mirror and other professional products that I need like sealing spray, hairspray etc.

Easy to find your products

Cantilever draws keep your small items tidy

From these photos, you'll see I have a variety of makeup in my working kit.  Some of my favourite brands are Masquerade Professional, NYX Cosmetics, Kryolan, Ben Nye, Napoleon Perdis, Mehron, Graftobian, Melli Cosmetics and M.A.C.  Other brands in my kit include Stageline, Makeup International, Stargazer and Japonesque.  As far as I'm concerned, when it comes to brands, they're all on the same playing field, I judge by the product performance.  I choose professional quality brands, as they are usually highly pigmented and long lasting.

In future blogs, I'll sort through my makeup kit and do some product reviews.  Please comment below if you see any products of interest in my kit that you'd like to find out about.

This is how my kit looks when it's standing up as a trolley on wheels

Dita Von Teese ~ Luscious Makeup Style

 

Dita Von Teese, the world's queen of Burlesque and Pin-Up style icon!

The secret to acheiving Dita's gorgeous timeless makeup look is first to have clean, primed skin.  Conceal any blemishes or under eye darkness with a concealer.  Apply a good even coverage of foundation, making sure you balance the skin tone to the neck, ears and hairline.  You want the application to appear flawless.  Liquid foundation applied with a foundation brush will provide even coverage, cream foundation applied with a dampened sponge also provides a great flawless complexion.  Both need to be set with a translucent powder.  There are many other foundation choices available, find whatever works best for you to provide the utltimate coverage.  Aim for a flawless, porcelain like effect.

Line the upper eyelids with either a black liquid or pencil eyeliner, extending the outer line.  Make your eyeliner width across the top of the eyelids, much wider that you normally would otherwise you'll lose that dramatic effect you're aiming for.  It's important to do this before you apply false eyelashes, it not only gives a good black line to guide you in applying the lashes but also fills in close to your own lashes avoiding any skin showing through.  Once you have your false eyelashes in place, add a slight under eyeline, and design your eyeshadow.  Stick to neutral tones, matte or shimmer.  An eye primer helps your eyeshadow stay in place, stops creasing and flaking, and assists in your makeup lasting longer.  Contour the orbital bone with a darker earthy tone to shape the eye socket.  Using a highlight under the brow arch opens the eyes and compliments the eye makeup design.  After you've finished the eye makeup design, check any colour fill around the false lashes by adding a black eye powder, this also helps set the eyeline.

Define the brows with a brow liner, either a pencil or powder is fine.  Apply light feathery strokes, rather than harsh lines.  You could also use a brow stencil for a more even and dramatic brow shape.  Make sure you enhance the brow arches and extend the brow tail as in 50's style pinup makeup.  Apply a brow colour to suit your colouring.  If you are a blonde, choose taupes & browns.  If you have dark hair, choose darker browns or charcoal brow tones.

Luscious Lips.  Using a red lipliner, start in the middle of the cupid's bow & make lining strokes towards the outer of the lips.  Same for the bottom lip.  Fill in the entire lips with lipliner colour, this helps your lipstick to stay on longer.  Then go ahead and apply your red lipstick, use a matte type and apply with a lip brush.  You get more accuracy with a lip brush.  Blot, and repeat for longer staying power.  If you want a little glossier look, just add a small amout of gloss lipstick in the same red tone to highlight, mainly towards the middle of bottom and top lips. 

Blush, for that "just rolled in the hay look", apply the blush lightly to the cheek apples.  Powder down the whole makeup with translucent powder when completed, you could also use a setting spray for long lasting wear, especially if you will be in the spotlight!   Don't forget to style the hair to compliment the makeup, 50's hairstyle, sleek modern or wavy vintage looks would work well.

Dita's look is perfect for glamorous night events, photography, runway, fashion, bridal or if you just want to feel Dita fabulous!

   

For more tips on how to achieve luscious red lips for your Dita look, here is another related post.

http://www.themakeuptheorystudio.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/luscious-red-lips.html

NYX Cosmetics Eyebrow Stencil Kit & Brow Shaping

Well groomed eyebrows help to draw attention to the eyes and enhances them.  Eyebrow fashions change frequently, so the most sensible option is to stick to a natural look, unless you deliberately want to create a more dramatic and defined effect.  Eyebrow colour should relate to the hair colour and the overall strength of the makeup you are using.  Strengthening the browline is a vital part of face shaping.  Brows can be made to appear fatter or thinner.  Since the 90's there has been renewed emphasis on 'the perfect brow'.  The best guideline to follow is the brow bone.  As seen in the diagram above: 

• A line is drawn from the centre point at where the eyebrow begins
• Then up to the highest arch point and down again to its tail end

Using a long makeup brush, place it vertically from the base of the nose to meet at the brow.  Then angle the brush to position its centre over the middle of the eye.  Where your brush ends, the arch of the brow should be seen there, not directly in the middle of the brow, but just offset from it.  Continue moving the brush outwards and place in line with the end of the eye shape.  This should be where the brow finishes.  Now the brows can be shaped accordingly and are best drawn with eyebrow pencil or brow specific powders. 

Eyebrow stencil kits are popular now and quite easy to use.  When using any brow stencils, the same rules apply for positioning and use light feathery strokes rather than harsh lines.  Blend tones to achieve a more natural look to match your skin tone.  Utilise the blend of several brow powders, stencils and brow brushes to help you shape your arches.



Makeup in History: Egyptian Makeup

The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in Ancient Egypt in 4000 B.C.  Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics.  The Romans and Ancient Egyptians, not realising their dangerous properties, used cosmetics containing mercury and white lead.  Lead seems to have been around since time began!  The Ancient Egyptians adored their fragrances, particularly frankincense and myrrh, both are mentioned in the Bible.  They also used a wide variety of makeup tools and utensils.

 Kohl was used to outline the eyes and was made up of several different ingredients such as: lead, copper, burned almonds, soot, and combined with other ingredients.  It was believed that eye makeup could ward off evil spirits and improve eyesight.  If it were true, I'd have the best eyesight around, we love eyeliner at The Makeup Theory!  Even the poor Egyptians wore eye makeup.  The production of cosmetics during Ancient Rome, was usually done by female slaves called 'Cosmatae'.  Kohl was originally used as protection against eye ailments and glare from the sun.  Kohl, along with malachite (copper carbonate mineral) green in colour, and lipstick made from ochre oil.  Ochre oil is derived naturally tinted clay containing mineral oxides.  Cleopatra is known to have coloured her lips with carmine dyes.


Elizabeth Taylor as "Cleopatra"




Egyptian Makeup & Hair design worksheet



Egyptian Makeup Chart

 



 

Above are various Egyptian eye makeup designs we've created.  Note the inclusion of modern colours, eyeliner design and brow definition.  You can alter a traditional eye makeup design and give it a modern edge, great for runway styling, fashion photo shoot or performance.

Makeup in History: 17th Century Elizabethan - Brows

In 17th Century England, Queen Elizabeth I totally removed her brows, and to create a more enhanced white skin she also removed a strip of hair above her forehead.  To create perfect translucent white skin, she painted artificial veins on her brow space.  She also whitened her face with 'ceruse', a paste of white lead compounds applied with a damp cloth.  This was the fashion of the day, white lead powders were popular and many deaths occurred in the name of beauty. 

  

Queen Elizabeth I 

   

 

  Cate Blanchett as Queen Elizabeth I

Work Ethics for MUA's



A good work ethic!  I think this is one of THE most important attributes a Makeup Artist can have (apart from natural talent of course).  I've come across many a horror story about how a MUA has almost ruined a Brides' day by not only being late, but get this ... forgetting her kit!  What the?  If you are an aspiring MUA, keep these helpful hints we've put together in mind and your next job will be a pleasure for all.  You'll also find, if you maintain great standards in the industry, more work will be offered to you.

• Act in a professional manner at all times.  Remember you have a job to do.
• Don't gossip, it's a big no-no in the industry.  Always remember client confidentiality. 
• Be punctual.
• Dress neatly, correctly and appropriately for the assignment.  Pay attention to your own personal hygiene.  Remember you are working very closely with your clients.  Use deodorant and make sure you don't have bad breath.
• Be prepared for all jobs, no matter how big or small.  They all require the same attention.
• Be pleasant and helpful on set.  You may be booked again if you're easy to get along with.
• Be critical of your own work.  Pay attention to detail.
• Unless a certain look is specified, design you own .. create, enhance.
• Collect a picture file for reference.  Visit libraries, scroll the internet, collect magazine pictures.
• Study face shapes and their prominent features.
• Practice makes perfect and builds confidence.
• Experiment with new looks and challenge yourself.

Luscious Red Lips

We know it's true, girls have always secretly adored glamorous red lips, whether they wear red lipstick or not.   How can we create the Hollywood red lips successfully for long lasting, fault free wear?  Well first my little glamettes, apply your foundation making sure you coat your lips also.  Make sure your makeup is applied and the lips are the last to do. 
Draw your lip outline with a red lipliner (not an orangey tone), but a red lipliner with a blue undertone, this way your teeth won't appear yellow.  This rule also applies to the red colour lipstick you choose.  Well, that's unless you're actually wearing a red-orange lipstick, more common these days with all the fluro and 1980's influence in makeup trends.

Ok, back to red lips.... fill your lip colour entirely with the red lipliner.  Marking from the Cupid's Bow to the outer corners works best, and from the middle of your bottom lip to the outer corners also.  Apply your lipstick, making sure you keep withing the lip line.  Use a lip brush, rather than just straight out of the wind-up.  You'll get a more precise application.  Next, dab your lips with a tissue, then re-apply the lipstick.   This sets your lipstick for more staying power.  Use a matte red, rather than a gloss red, it won't travel.  And wah lah!  You will have gorgeous glamorous red lips! 

Handy to know:  If you find the red just too intense for you, dull it down a little with a slight touch of nude terracotta toned lipstick over the top, but apply blended mainly to the middle zone of both top & bottom lips.  Another important tip, if you do draw over the edges of your lips and make a mistake, remember to wipe inwards with a cotton bud, not outward!  You can also brush over any red stains outside the lip line with a foundation then powder to set.

Dare to wear the Red!
xx TMT

Retro humour never dies

I've come across some great retro humour lately, always worth a giggle and reminds us how far we've come since the 1950's at least.  Here's a little retro offering to tickle your fancy. 

xxoo TMT

Welcome to TMT's little makeup studio blog

Hi everyone!

Sometimes, there's just so much more to say about our beautiful world and the gorgeous people in it!  The Makeup Theory loves all things makeup (of course), fashion, movies, music, retro style, anything nostalgic and everything creative.  As you probably have guessed ... yes we're Marilyn fans too! 

We'll be posting blogs about makeup, beauty, lifestyle, fashion trends, styling, celebs and of course hunting down some great makeup tutorials for your enjoyment.  This is our online studio ... it's a work in progress, and it's nothing without you!

Cheers for now!
TMT xx